Cuttin' tha cord...

I use either a razor blade just like you do, or a snap off blade utility knife.

 

Same here. Razor blade on a flexible plastic cutting board. Works the best for me. I like this because you can get the angle right!

 

I use the one cutting tool I'm most proficient with....Xacto knife. Number 11 blade will get you in really tight spots and you can saw right through it. Keep em fresh, dull blades suck.

5 years of architecture school will make you cut just about everything with an Xacto, haha.

 

Troof! So will 5 years at a sign company.

 

I've bought these little scissors from Marc's for $.88 they are made in China but they have a Lifetime Warranty. They are very sharp.
Before I bought those which was about four weeks ago I was using a pair of scissors from my clipper set.
Before those I was using the scissors on my SAK Classic and the scissors on my Leatherman New Wave.

I like the small precision scissors for paracord.

 

I use a pair of snips.

simple, cheap, and it works the best IMO

 

I highly recommend these:

http://www.paracordist.com/kleen-cut-paracord-scissors/

 

Nice but a little pricey.

 

A long time ago, I worked at a sewing plant and we used a soldering iron with an Exacto blade attachment for cutting the nylon strips for zipper pulls.

I was toying with making something similar with one of my old soldering irons. That way I could cut and fuse the ends at the same time.

But then I realized I don't actually do enough cutting to justify it. Now I either use my Mora Companion (sharpest fixed blade knife I have EVER bought) or just heat a #11 blade in a candle.

Maybe if I were doing projects that used a lot of specific lengths of cord it would make sense to do the soldering iron thing...

 

If I was cutting a lot of any synthetic cord, I'd go with a heated blade or something like the styrofoam cutting table with a hot nichrome wire. But most of us are moving around in the Real World and may need to cut at unpredictable times and places. So the most practical advice is to always have a SHARP blade. An improvised "cutting board" to work against is a bonus.

It can be a chore to keep one's EDC knives razor sharp. My Al Mar SERE 2000 sees constant use, followed by my neck knife (presently a Cold Steel Spike) and my Leatherman WAVE. My Bowen Survivor buckle (single edged, of course, and at least 30 years old) sees more use as a beer cap lifter, but it's always there as my least used backup blade. If you can't keep all of 'em touched up, at least keep one very sharp. I must admit, the knifemaker's belt sander and the 6000 grit belt have made life easier.

For larger cordage, usually twist, rarely kernmantle, I like the serrated blade on the Leatherman. Wrap the location to be cut with electrical tape, then cut it through the tape. Melt ends as time permits. Serrated blade is also great for plastic tie wraps. I use a lot of these cable ties to hang tags at work.

Paracord really should have the ends melted every single time. I confess to occasionally slipping up in this department - but I know better.

 

Interesting options mentioned here! I have considered the hot knife solution, but I have never used one to know what the benefits / drawbacks of that would be. I personally use sharp scissors and a lighter. I do heatseal a LOT of cord this way, maybe I should consider upgrading the process at some point!

 

The heavy duty scissors from Harbor Freight are the best I've found, unless I'm using the hot knife from Harbor Freight also.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-scissors-98450.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/130-watt-heavy-duty-hot-knife-60313.html

 

As soon as I try the angle cutter on my Spool Tool I'll give a report. It looks like it should work well.

Just my opinion.

 

Well, I had a few minutes to play with one of the TricornE Spool Tools I received the other day.

100' of cord fills it fully.
The angled blade cutter slices through 550 cord like butter, minimizing pulling kerns or shredding the mantle.

Putting the cord into the largest of the fusing notches was a bit hard until I learned to stretch the cord just slightly and then slide it in rather than trying to push it straight down into the notch & hole.

The mini-Bic lighter is held securely, but pops in and out easily with the right technique, which is pretty obvious after trying it a couple of times.

A note: Though the documentation doesn't say so, I put the lighter in with the push button inside, with it at the end of the holder with the small protrusion. This way the lighter button is protected and can't be activated in the pack or anything.

With the cord in the fusing notch it is easy to burn, and there is no twisting or distorting of the cord as can occur when holding in one's hand and manipulating it to get the flame just so.

I highly recommend the product. I have two, and will be getting more.
http://www.spooltool.us/#!home/mainPage

Just my opinion.

 

Knives tug on your cord if you pull up vertically, but works. I use a sharp pair of scissors, and kinda work with it until the whole cord is cut, then I burn the end with a lighter, then I use a pair of pliers to pinch the end to a tapered finish so I can fit it through tigt\ht holes kind of like a show lace tip.

 

Thanks for the info/review of that product.

 

I find using a good pair of scissors is simply the best and fastest way to go.